Friday 30 September 2011

Hiking in South Africa

We have just spent three days in Plettenberg Bay, which is a beach resort town located along the Indian Ocean.    On our first day, we decided to go on a hike given that we hadn’t really been doing anything but eating, driving, and drinking wine.
There is a nature reserve, Robberg Nature Park that jets out into the ocean.  Guests at our guest house recommended that we go on the hike and it was strongly seconded by the owners. So, after breakfast, Rob and I headed out for a morning hike.  We had been told by the couple at the guest house that the hike took 3.5 hours and the owner said she estimated 2 hours.   We assumed they were talking about the largest of three hikes that loops around the peninsula.  The longest hike was 9.2 km and 3.5 hours sounded reasonable. 
Our first indication that hikes in South Africa are not quite like others was the trail map.  In two locations it was marked with skull and crossbones.   There were various warnings about high-tide and strong winds.  It was a very nice day so we set off on our way. 
Shortly into the hike, we caught a glimps of several of these little guys...they are called daissies.   They are very similar to rabbits but have very small ears.

Since the park is situated on the Indian Ocean there are hundreds of seals who play in one particular part of the trail.  There are so many that you can smell them from the trail.  Here’s a picture of some of them playing and laying in the sun. 

After we had passed the seals, the trail became sandy.  One portion of the area called Whitsand supplies the sand for the miles and miles of beach making up Plettenberg Bay.    As we were hiking through this portion of the trail, we came across a snake in the middle of the path.   When we hike, Katie always goes first so she can see the trail (not possible with a six foot door in front).   Katie almost stepped on the snake and recoiled quickly when she saw it.   We both starred at it and pondered whether it was alive and if so, whether it was poisonous.   Rob “bravely” threw a rock in its direction to see if it would move.  It lazily slithered half-way under the brush along the trail.   So, it was alive but we still didn’t know if it was poisonous.   We waited a few minutes and then finally decided to jump on a rock and around the snake.  Here are some pictures of it.


Once we returned to our guest house, we asked the patron if they knew what kind of snake it was.  They certainly did – it was puff adder.   They are a very common, deadly snake but they are also very lazy.   Apparently you practically have to step on it for them to attack.  Lucky us.
When we arrived at one of the portions of the trail that was marked with skull and crossbones, we completely understood why.  You can’t really tell from the picture below but the waves from the ocean had been high enough to make the rock ledge wet and the trail was very slippery.  


The hike was wonderful and when we got back and told the guest house owners that we had done the entire trail and that it took us 4 hours, they were flabbergasted.  They said that “no one” does the entire thing and that they had only meant that we do the half trail.   Oh well – we loved it and had a great time.


Now, we are off to the game reserves.

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